Sjolie Sunless has numerous formulas and color options when it comes to choosing a solution best for your client, and it can be overwhelming. We’ve broken down these determining factors in order of importance, so technicians can have a better understanding of which solution to use during their next spray tanning service.
Choosing a DHA percentage
Whether you carry one or more solution blends, selecting the appropriate DHA level is the most important step when deciding which solution will look best on your client.
Why is DHA so essential? Dihydroxyacetone or DHA is a simple carbohydrate derived from sugar cane and sugar beets. DHA reacts chemically (non-toxic) with the amino acids in the cells on the surface skin. Various amino acids respond differently to DHA, causing the pigment we know as a spray tan.
Choosing a DHA percentage close to the client’s natural skin tone is recommended. Spraying with an appropriate solution color will give favorable results and allow your client to have a long-lasting tan without any unnatural looking contrast between spray tan and natural skin tone. Spraying your lighter complexion client with the wrong color solution, say a very high DHA percentage, could result in strange color, streakiness, uneven fade, and worse a lousy client review!
|SKIN TYPE||GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS||RECOMMENDED SOLUTION|
|Type 1 – Type 2||Fair complexions; light skin tone, light hair, and eyes, burns easily or always||Solution No.6, Ultra Rapid|
|Type 3||Fair complexion; most common skin type, eye & hair color vary, sometimes burns & tans,||Solution No.9, Icon Tier 1, Ultra Rapid, LUXE No.9, LUXE Ultra|
|Type 4 – Type 5||Mediterranean – Middle Eastern complexions; medium to heavy skin pigmentation, dark hair & eyes, rarely burns, rarely sun sensitive||Solution No.12, No.14, Icon Tier 2, Ultra Rapid, LUXE No.12, LUXE Ultra|
|Type 6||Black complexions; dark hair, skin, and eyes, tans easily||Solution No.14, Ultra Rapid, LUXE Ultra|
Choosing a formula
Based on your client’s preferences and skin type, you will want to select a moisturizing formula or a quick dry formula to fit their needs.
Moisturizing formulas will hydrate and nourish the skin as the spray tan develops. Moisturizing solutions are known for providing a longer lasting spray tan and a less noticeable fade because of their moisturizing benefits; keep in mind, clients will still need to apply the proper at home product and stick to a hydrating regimen. These solutions are great for all clients especially those with drier skin. The Sjolie moisturizing solutions include the Original Line (No.6, No.9, No.12, No.14) and have an Aloe Vera ingredient base.
Quick Dry solutions have an alcohol ingredient base. This alcohol provides your client with a “lighter” feel, unlike the Aloe Vera which may feel heavy or “tacky.” Quick dry solutions allow clients to feel comfortable as the spray tan develops and dress immediately. Quick Dry solutions are ideal for client’s who do not like the heavy feel of moisturizing blends, those with oily skin, or those who do not like the feel of spray tans in general. Because Quick Dry formulas are alcohol based, technicians should remind clients of daily moisturizing and hydration importance. Failure to moisturize adequately can result in an uneven fade or the “alligator skin” look. Alcohol-based solutions include the Icon Reserve Tier One & Tier Two as well as the LUXE Violet Line (No.9, No.12, Ultra)
Choosing an undertone
After having selected your DHA percentage and your formula, you can now narrow down your solution options to determine if one or another undertone would be ideal for your client. Sjolie offers two solution formulas, Sjolie Original and Sjolie LUXE; both formulated with different undertones to enhance your client’s natural skin tone.
Carrying multiple solutions with different undertones may not be necessary for some, but this does allow for in-depth spray tan customization and enables the technicians to color correct and compliment a client’s skin tone with a solution further than the primary choices.
Solution undertones are affected by the cosmetic bronzer within the formula. These cosmetic bronzers act as a color guide for technicians during application as well as a temporary color for the customer as the tan develops. Most cosmetic bronzer will wash off in the shower; however, it does have a staining power which tints the skin with the undertone used, violet or green is most common. This tint is only temporary and will gradually fade.
A green-based solution will help to counteract red color or cool undertones. The Sjolie Original Solution line with a green-base will help to enhance the client’s natural tones and create a golden tan while refraining from adding more pink to the complexion.
A violet-based solution will help to neutralize yellow color or warm undertones. The Sjolie LUXE Solution Line with a violet base is ideal for those wanting a deep brown tan.
Both green-based and violet-based solutions will be complimentary to neutral undertones. Choose from the Sjolie Original Solution Line or the LUXE Solution Line for your neutral clientele.
Cool – Pink, Red or Bluish undertones
- Pink or Beige complexions
- Blue or purple veins in the wrists
- Skin reflects yellow in natural sunlight
- Burns in the sun
- Wears pink based makeup
- Look best in silver jewelry
Warm – Yellow, peachy, or Golden undertones
- Yellow or Golden complexions
- Green or olive veins in the wrists
- Skin reflects blue in natural sunlight
- Tans in the sun
- Wears yellow based makeup
- Looks best in gold jewelry
Neutral – Peach, beige, or olive undertones
- Olive or Brown complexions
- Blue-green veins in the wrists
- Skin reflects green in natural sunlight
- Tans, but burns occasionally
- Wears makeup which is not too yellow or pink
- Looks best in gold and silver jewelry