Spray Tan Color Chart — Levels, Shades & Undertones
Spray Tan Levels, Colors & Shades
Spray tan levels refer to the DHA percentage in a solution, which controls how deep the finished color develops. Sjolie levels run from N°6 (6% DHA) for fair skin to N°14 (14%) for deep skin, with Rapid formulas at 18%. Undertone — olive, violet, or clear — controls the hue of the tan, while the level controls the depth.
Getting a natural result is a two-part decision: pick the level that matches how much depth your client wants, then pick the undertone that flatters their natural skin tone. This guide covers both, with a full chart, Fitzpatrick matching, and the mistakes that cause orange or ashy results.
Spray Tan Color Chart — Every Level at a Glance
Every Sjolie solution, its DHA percentage, base, undertone, and the skin types it suits best.
| Solution | DHA % | Base | Undertone | Best For (Fitzpatrick) | Longevity |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Original N°6 | 6% | Aloe Vera | Olive | I–II (Fair) | Up to 10 days |
| Original N°9 | 9% | Aloe Vera | Olive | II–III (Medium) | Up to 10 days |
| Original N°12 | 12% | Aloe Vera | Olive | IV–V (Dark) | Up to 10 days |
| Original N°14 | 14% | Aloe Vera | Olive | V–VI (Deep) | Up to 10 days |
| Luxe N°9 | 9% | Alcohol | Violet | II–III (Medium) | Up to 7 days |
| Luxe N°12 | 12% | Alcohol | Violet | IV–V (Dark) | Up to 7 days |
| Original Rapid | 18% | Alcohol | Olive | All types | 1–5 hr rinse |
| Luxe Rapid | 18% | Alcohol | Violet | All types | 1–5 hr rinse |
| Clear N°9 | 9% | Aloe Vera | None | II–III (Medium) | Up to 10 days |
What DHA Percentage Actually Means
DHA (dihydroxyacetone) is the active that creates a sunless tan, and its percentage determines depth, not shade. A 6% solution develops a subtle glow; 12–14% develops rich, deep color. DHA is derived from sugar cane and sugar beets and reacts with amino acids in the skin’s outermost layer.
A common misconception is that a higher percentage produces a darker-looking tan on every client. It does not. DHA develops relative to the skin it lands on — the same N°12 reads noticeably deeper on Type III skin than on Type V. That is why matching level to skin type matters more than simply reaching for the highest number.
Color continues developing for 12–24 hours after the first rinse, so judge the true result the following day rather than immediately after the shower.
Spray Tan Undertones: Violet vs Olive vs Clear
Undertone corrects unwanted color rather than adding depth. Violet-based solutions neutralize orange and brassy tones, producing a cooler, deeper finish. Olive-based solutions counter red tones for a golden, sun-kissed brown. Clear solutions contain no bronzer or dye at all.
Violet (Luxe Line)
Violet sits opposite orange on the color wheel, so it cancels brassiness. Best for warm or olive complexions that tend to pull orange, and for clients who want a deep chocolate-brown finish. Available in N°9 and N°12.
Olive (Original Line)
Green neutralizes red, making olive undertones ideal for cool or neutral skin and anyone prone to a pink or ruddy cast. Produces a natural golden brown. Available N°6 through N°14 on an aloe vera base.
Clear (N°9 Clear)
No bronzer, no dye, no guide color. Best for sensitive clients, mature skin, anyone worried about transfer onto clothing or bedding, and situations where a guide color would be a problem.
Matching Spray Tan Shades to Skin Type
The Fitzpatrick scale classifies skin by how it responds to sun exposure, and it is the most reliable way to choose a spray tan level. Types I–II suit N°6 to N°9, Type III suits N°9, Type IV suits N°12, and Types V–VI suit N°12 to N°14.
| Skin Type | Characteristics | Sun Response | Recommended Solutions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Type I | Pale, ivory white. Blonde or red hair, light eyes, freckles | Always burns, never tans | Original N°6, Rapid |
| Type II | Fair, beige. Light hair and eyes, can have dark features | Burns easily, tans with difficulty | Original N°6, N°9, Rapid |
| Type III | Light to medium. Most common type, hair and eye color varies | Sometimes burns, gradually tans | Original N°9, Luxe N°9, Rapid |
| Type IV | Medium brown. Brown or dark hair | Rarely burns, tans easily | Original N°12, Luxe N°12, Rapid |
| Type V | Deep brown. Black or dark hair and eyes | May never burn, tans easily | Original N°12, N°14, Luxe N°12, Rapid |
| Type VI | Black. Black or dark hair and eyes | Never burns | Original N°14, Rapid |
Fair skin (Types I–II): start one level lighter than you think. Fair skin shows unevenness far more readily, and a client can always build depth at the next appointment. Deep skin (Types V–VI): depth is rarely the challenge — undertone accuracy is. A violet base keeps deep skin from reading dull or ashy.
Original vs Luxe vs Rapid — Side by Side
Three lines, three jobs. Original is the moisturizing everyday workhorse, Luxe is the violet-based option for depth without brass, and Rapid compresses the development window for clients who cannot wait eight hours.
| Feature | Original Line | Luxe Line | Rapid Solutions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Base | Aloe Vera | Alcohol | Alcohol |
| Undertone | Olive (green) | Violet | Both available |
| Development | 8-hour | 8-hour | 1–4 hour rinse |
| Result | Golden, sun-kissed | Deep chocolate-brown | Quick-develop flexibility |
| Feel | Moisturizing | Quick-dry | Quick-dry |
| Fragrance | Fragrance-free | Fragrance-free | Fragrance-free |
Rapid solutions use a higher 18% DHA concentration with a shorter rinse window rather than a longer wear time — they are about scheduling flexibility, not extra depth. Color still continues developing after the rinse.
Five Shade-Matching Mistakes (and the Fix)
1. Reaching for the darkest level to please the client. Depth beyond a client’s natural range reads artificial and fades unevenly. Move up one level per visit instead.
2. Ignoring undertone entirely. Most “orange” complaints are an undertone mismatch, not too much DHA. Switch a warm-skinned client from olive to violet before lowering the level.
3. Judging the result at first rinse. Color develops for another 12–24 hours. Assess the next day.
4. Using the same solution on every skin type. A single-level lineup guarantees some clients are mismatched. Carrying two levels and both undertones covers nearly every client.
5. Skipping prep. Even a perfect level will fade patchy over unexfoliated, unbalanced skin. pH-balanced, exfoliated, unmoisturized skin is the precondition for any shade result.
Spray Tan Shade and Level FAQ
Spray tan levels are defined by DHA percentage. Sjolie runs N°6 (6% DHA) for fair skin, N°9 (9%) for medium, N°12 (12%) for tan or dark, and N°14 (14%) for deep skin. Rapid formulas use 18% with a shorter rinse window.
Ready to Match Your Client?
Once you know the level and undertone you need, browse the full range and order samples to test on real clients before committing to a full size.