Sjolie Skin Chart – Recommended Solutions

Type I is very fair skin that always burns and never tans naturally — typically with light or red hair, blue or green eyes, and often freckles. Type II is fair skin that burns easily and tans minimally — light hair, light eyes, and a tendency toward pink or peach undertones.

Fair skin is the most sensitive to DHA and the most likely to turn orange if the wrong solution or percentage is used. The key is starting low. Original N°6 (6% DHA) is specifically formulated for Types I-II — it delivers a light, golden glow with olive undertones that counteract the pink and red tones common in fair skin. For clients who want a slightly deeper result, Original N°9 (9% DHA) works for Type II skin with the right prep and application technique.

For fair-skinned clients with warm or neutral undertones who want to avoid any golden cast, Luxe N°9 is an excellent alternative. Its violet undertone produces a more chocolate-brown result that reads as a natural sun-kissed color rather than a warm golden tan. The alcohol base also dries faster, reducing the risk of streaking on skin that tends to be drier.

Clear solution (9% DHA, bronzer-free) is another strong option for Type I clients who are nervous about going too dark — it develops gradually with no immediate cosmetic bronzer, so the result is subtle and buildable.

Pro tip: Fair skin shows every application error. Use lighter coats, maintain consistent spray distance, and apply barrier cream generously on hands, feet, elbows, and knees. These areas grab DHA faster on fair skin and will go dark or orange without protection.

Type IV skin rarely burns and tans easily to a moderate-to-dark brown. It typically has olive or warm golden undertones and is common in Mediterranean, Hispanic, and some Asian skin types. This skin already has significant natural pigment, so the goal of a spray tan is to enhance depth and evenness rather than create color from scratch.

Original N°12 (12% DHA) is the primary recommendation for Type IV. It adds noticeable depth to already-tan skin without looking heavy or artificial. Luxe N°12 is the preferred choice when the client has warm undertones — the violet base prevents the result from pulling too golden or muddy on skin that already carries warm pigment.

For clients wanting maximum depth, Original N°14 (14% DHA) provides the darkest result in the Original line. On Type IV skin, N°14 produces a deep, rich bronze that lasts well because darker skin sheds more evenly.

Rapid solutions work exceptionally well on Type IV because the higher DHA percentage (18%) has more room to develop on melanin-rich skin. A 3-hour rinse time on Type IV typically produces a medium-deep result; 4-5 hours produces a dramatic deep bronze.

Pro tip: Olive skin can sometimes develop a greenish or ashy undertone with certain DHA levels. If you notice this, switch to Luxe — the violet undertone counteracts the green cast and produces a warmer, more natural brown.

Fitzpatrick type tells you how much DHA to use. Undertone tells you which line to use — Original or Luxe. Getting both right is what separates a good spray tan from a great one.

Cool undertones (pink, red, or blue-based skin) pair naturally with the Original line. The olive/golden undertone in Original solutions warms up cool skin without clashing. This produces the classic sun-kissed golden tan look.

Warm undertones (yellow, golden, or peach-based skin) are better matched with the Luxe line. The violet/chocolate undertone neutralizes excess warmth and prevents the result from pulling orange or overly golden. This is the number one fix for clients who have experienced orange spray tans in the past.

Neutral undertones (a balanced mix) work well with either line. This is where custom mixing shines — blending Original and Luxe in equal parts creates a perfectly balanced tone that flatters neutral skin beautifully.

Not sure about a client’s undertone? Check the veins on the inside of their wrist. Blue or purple veins indicate cool undertones. Green veins indicate warm. A mix of both means neutral. This takes five seconds and dramatically improves your solution selection accuracy.

Always assess in natural light. Salon lighting skews color perception. If possible, check your client’s skin tone near a window or step outside briefly before selecting a solution. What looks like a Type III under warm salon lights might be a Type II in daylight.

Use pH Balancer before every spray. Skin pH varies between clients and even across different body areas on the same person. Alkaline skin prevents DHA from bonding properly, which leads to uneven development or no development at all. pH Balancer creates a consistent surface for DHA to react with — it’s the single easiest way to improve consistency across all skin types.

When in doubt, go lighter. You can always add a second coat or rebook for a darker solution. You can’t take color away once DHA has bonded. Starting conservative builds client trust and avoids the “too dark” complaint that sends first-timers away for good.

Document what works. Keep a client card noting their Fitzpatrick type, undertone, which solution you used, how many coats, and the result. This eliminates guesswork on repeat visits and lets you dial in their perfect formula over time.

Factor in the season. Clients are often lighter in winter and darker in summer. A client who was a solid Type III in August might be closer to a Type II in January. Reassess at each visit rather than defaulting to the same solution year-round.